Kaymakli, Rainy Goreme, and On to Athens

This post is the part of Europe Travel Series. Catch up on the first part here. If you would like to read our unforgettable hot air balloon experience, click here.

When we first read about underground cities, we could hardly believe that such places actually existed. Cappadocia is home to several underground cities, the two most famous being Kaymaklı and Derinkuyu. Carved into the region's soft volcanic rock, these remarkable cities extend 5 to 8 levels underground. They were large enough to shelter thousands of people for days or even weeks, along with their children and livestock. During the Byzantine period, early Christians expanded and used these underground cities as safe refuges during invasions.

On our third day in Cappadocia, around 9 AM, we hired a taxi and headed to Kaymaklı Underground City, one of the region’s most fascinating historical sites. After buying our tickets at the entrance, we began exploring this incredible underground world.

Walking through the narrow tunnels and descending deeper into the city, we were amazed to see how people had carved out an entire community beneath the ground. The experience itself was an adventure, with low ceilings and tight passages that required us to bend, crouch, and carefully climb steep stairways between levels. Moving through these confined spaces gave us a deeper appreciation of how challenging life must have been underground, with limited natural light and a maze of passageways connecting the city.

Despite these challenges, the underground city was remarkably well planned. It included living quarters, kitchens, storage rooms, stables, churches, and clever ventilation shafts that brought fresh air deep underground. Walking through these tunnels, it was hard to imagine entire communities living here for days or even weeks, staying hidden and safe while danger remained above them.

As we explored further, we saw the huge circular stone doors that could be rolled shut to block the passageways during attacks. These doors helped protect the people who took shelter inside the underground city.

Walking through these ancient tunnels gave us a glimpse of the creativity and determination of the people who built this hidden world. It was amazing to imagine families living underground for days, depending on these spaces for safety during difficult times. Our visit was a fascinating and humbling experience, helping us understand the incredible history of Cappadocia.

It didn't take long to explore the underground city. After our visit, we returned to downtown Cappadocia and spent some time browsing the local shops. One of the unique items we came across was the Sultana Stone, a gemstone known for changing color in different lighting, especially in sunlight. Many of the jewelry stores sold beautiful rings, pendants, and other pieces made with this fascinating stone.

For lunch, we visited Dalchini Indian Restaurant and enjoyed dosa, our first Indian meal since arriving in Turkey. After several days of enjoying delicious Turkish cuisine, the familiar flavors felt comforting and brought a little taste of home. While chatting with the manager, we learned how recent tensions between Iran and United States had affected Indian restaurants in Cappadocia. He mentioned that many Indian travelers used to visit Cappadocia, and the change in travel patterns had impacted their business.

In the afternoon, we returned to our hotel to relax. It had been a fairly warm day, and we had noticed from the first day that the air conditioning in our cave hotel wasn't very effective. When we mentioned it to the hotel staff, they explained that the temperature was regulated centrally and, since it was still May, the air conditioning had not been fully switched on. We found it a bit surprising for a Michelin-star hotel, but they promptly provided us with a pedestal fan. With the fan, the room was comfortable enough, and we enjoyed a restful afternoon.

By evening, just as we were getting ready to head out, it started drizzling. Seeing Göreme in the gentle evening rain felt like a special little moment. The wet streets, misty surroundings, and peaceful atmosphere gave the village a completely different charm, making it even more beautiful than before.

We borrowed a couple of umbrellas from the hotel reception and walked toward the downtown area. As the rain grew heavier, we decided to find a restaurant and take shelter.

We ended up at an amazing restaurant specializing in wood-fired barbecue and traditional pottery kebab. The pottery kebab was the highlight of the evening—a dish where meat is slow-cooked inside a sealed clay pot and then dramatically cracked open at the table, releasing rich aromas and revealing tender, flavorful meat inside. It was not only delicious but also a fun experience to watch, making the meal truly unforgettable.

What made the evening even more special was the warmth of the restaurant owner, a young man running the place with his family. We had a lovely conversation with them, and their hospitality made us feel truly welcome.

That night, we wandered through the streets of Goreme one last time. The gentle rain, glowing village lights, and peaceful atmosphere made everything feel even more magical. It was the perfect way to say goodbye to Cappadocia, a place that had amazed us with its breathtaking landscapes, unique history, and unforgettable experiences. As we strolled through the quiet streets, we found ourselves reflecting on the wonderful memories we had made over the past few days, making it a fitting and memorable end to our time in this remarkable region.

The next morning, we requested breakfast at Happena Cappadocia Restaurant, which is part of the Kelebek Special Cave Hotel and closely associated with the sister property, Sultan Cave Suites. It offered a slightly different but equally memorable experience compared to our stay, with a much wider variety of traditional Turkish and Anatolian dishes along with a few international options.

The breakfast spread felt generous and thoughtfully prepared, making it a lovely way to start the day in Cappadocia. During breakfast, we met another Indian couple who were traveling from Canada and exploring Turkey by road. It was a pleasure talking to them and sharing travel stories—it added a warm, social touch to the morning and made the experience even more special.

After a relaxed and different breakfast experience, we checked out of the hotel and took the shuttle to Kayseri Airport for our next journey. From Cappadocia, there are no direct flights to Athens, so we had a layover in Istanbul Airport on the Asian side.  

At Istanbul Airport, we relaxed in the lounge and had lunch before boarding our flight to Athens, Greece. We landed around 8 PM and met our pre-booked taxi driver, who turned out to be a New Yorker. During the drive, he told us that he had chosen to settle in Athens because he no longer wanted to live in the United States and was much happier with life in Greece. We reached our Airbnb close to 10 PM.

For our 16-day trip, we traveled with only carry-on luggage, which made getting around much easier. To make this work, we planned a stay at an Airbnb in the middle of our journey that had a washing machine. We put our clothes in the washer and stepped out to grab some food while the laundry was running.

Near our Airbnb, we found a café called Salt and Sugar, where we picked up some carrot simit and water. After enjoying our snack, we returned home to find our laundry ready. Like many homes in Europe, our Airbnb did not have a dryer, so we hung our clothes on a drying rack before going to bed and let them air-dry overnight.

The next day was one of the most exciting days of our trip. We explored the historic treasures of Athens, including the iconic Acropolis. I’ll share those experiences soon!