Ghent, Belgium — Medieval Beauty by the River

This post is part of our Europe travel series. If you missed the beginning, you could catch up here. In the previous post, I shared all about our time in Rotterdam you can read that here.

On May 19th, after exploring Rotterdam, we boarded a train and said goodbye to the Netherlands as we made our way to Ghent, the capital of East Flanders in Belgium.

Belgium may be small in size, but it is incredibly rich in culture. Known for its medieval towns, stunning historic architecture, delicious chocolates, and world-famous beer, the country is divided into three regions: Flanders in the north, Wallonia in the south, and the Brussels-Capital Region in the center, each with its own personality and charm.

Ghent, in particular, has a fascinating past. During the Middle Ages, it was one of the wealthiest cities in Europe. Its prosperity was built on a thriving cloth industry powered by wool imported from England, a strong brewing tradition, and its strategic location along the Lys and Scheldt rivers, which made trade flourish.

Yet Ghent isn’t just about history. Today, it is also a lively university city, home to Ghent University, founded in the 19th century. With its impressive university library and the country’s largest university hospital, the city beautifully balances medieval charm with modern academic life.

We reached Ghent after 6 p.m. The Ghent City Pass wasn’t available online, and the station counter had already closed. After a bit of searching, we finally found a hotel where we could purchase the passes — a small relief after a long travel day. From there, a short tram ride took us to our Airbnb.The building was simple but welcoming. A small hall and kitchen greeted us at the entrance, while the bedroom with an attached bathroom was tucked away at the back. It wasn’t luxurious, but it was clean, cozy, and comfortable.

After freshening up and starting the laundry, we headed out to explore the historic center. Even though it was past 8 p.m., the sky was still bright. The tram stop was not close, so we walked about fifteen minutes. That walk turned out to be a gift.

The city slowly revealed itself in the soft evening light. We walked along quiet streets, admiring colorful murals, and eventually reached a small canal. It was hard to tell what was more beautiful: the delicate leaves of the weeping willows brushing the water, trembling in the breeze, or their reflections rippling in the canal.

 

The Ghent city center was even more beautiful. The Leie River flowed gently, and St. Michael’s Bridge arched gracefully across the water. On one side stood Graslei, and on the other Korenlei, with rows of tall medieval guild houses standing like silent guardians of history.

In the 12th century, these riverbanks bustled with boats carrying cloth and beer, unloading salt, spices, and wine. Even today, the quays remain lively with restaurants and people enjoying the evening air. On the wall of the Ghent Marriott Hotel, two swan murals caught our attention, symbols historically associated with companionship and drink.

By the time we returned to our room, it was already 9:30 p.m. The next morning, we woke up early and returned to the center. The soft sunlight made everything glow the river, the bridges, the old stone buildings. 

Our first stop was Saint Bavo’s Cathedral. The moment we stepped inside, we were struck by its grandeur. Black-and-white tiled floors created bold patterns. Tall columns and soaring arches lifted our eyes upward. Sunlight streamed through stained glass windows, casting colorful reflections across the stone. 

Inside the cathedral hangs one of the world’s greatest masterpieces. The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, painted in the 15th century by Hubert van Eyck and Jan van Eyck. Each of its twelve panels is filled with astonishing detail every flower, every gesture, every expression layered with symbolism. The reds, blues, and golds glow with life. Standing before it felt like standing before history itself devotion, artistry, and faith captured in paint.

We also took a virtual reality tour that began in the underground section of the cathedral. It narrated the altarpiece’s dramatic story, which was stolen multiple times, hidden, recovered before finally returning home. It made the entire experience feel alive.

We came out of the cathedral at around 11 a.m. We realized that although we had been in Belgium for hours, we hadn’t yet tasted Belgian chocolate. So, we visited Van Hoorebeke Chocolaterie and bought small boxes one for us and one for the kids. The chocolates were rich, smooth, and perfectly balanced melt-in-your-mouth delicious.

Next came Graffiti Street. We had expected messy scribbles, but instead found vibrant, skillful artwork. The street is an evolving gallery where anyone can contribute creativity layered upon creativity.

On our way to the castle, we discovered a charming student-run bookshop. The girl at the counter spoke warmly about Ghent University and her love for the city. She worked there to fund her master’s degree. Her dedication and affection for Ghent were touching. Even the shop’s décor old postcards and century-old advertisements felt like stepping into a time capsule.

 

We also wandered into a tiny plant shop, where a boy spoke softly to the plants as he cared for them. He said even loud words could disturb their balance. It was such a gentle, poetic moment like the city itself valued quietness.

After lunch at Souplounge, we visited Gravensteen, the 12th-century Castle of the Counts. Surrounded by a moat, it once served as a seat of power, a courthouse, a prison, and even a factory. We explored stone corridors, armories, narrow staircases, and hidden passageways. From the ramparts, the panoramic view of Ghent was breathtaking medieval rooftops, winding streets, and the Leie River shining below. For a moment, it felt like we were looking at Ghent as it once was centuries ago.

Later, we visited the Industriemuseum, where textile and printing exhibits told the story of the city’s industrial evolution. The museum did not shy away from difficult history, explaining how slavery and forced labor contributed to economic growth. It was informative and thought-provoking showing both pride and complexity in Ghent’s past.

After visiting the major attractions, we went back to the center to taste Belgian waffles and fries. Did you know that French fries actually originated in Belgium, not France? During harsh winters, when small fish were unavailable, locals fried potatoes instead. During World War I, American soldiers tasted them and called them “French fries,” likely because French was widely spoken in the region. In Belgium, fries are traditionally enjoyed with mayonnaise, creamy and delicious.

By 5 p.m., our final activity awaited: a river cruise. As the boat gently swayed along the Leie River, the captain shared stories about the city’s landmarks. The cool weather made the experience even more pleasant. Watching the medieval buildings reflected in the water felt truly magical.

We returned to our Airbnb, freshened up, and stepped out again, hoping to see Ghent glowing under the night lights. But summer evenings linger the sky was still painted in soft daylight, and a cool breeze drifted through the streets. We wandered for a bit, enjoying the peaceful air, before heading back for the night.

Even without the glow of night lights, Ghent had quietly captured our hearts. In just one day, we had immersed ourselves in its history, art, rivers, and warm conversations. Next time, we hope to stay closer to the city center to wander without rushing and allow its quiet, magnetic charm to hold us a little longer.

Our journey in Belgium didn’t end there. We visited another charming Belgian city. You can read those memories here.