A Day in Giethoorn, Zaanse Schans, and Volendam

This post is part of our Europe travel series. If you missed it, you can read the first part here and the previous post here.

We were both very interested in exploring the Dutch countryside, especially the charming village of Giethoorn, the windmills of Zaanse Schans, and the harbor town of Volendam.

On the third day of our trip, May 15, we set out to visit Giethoorn. The name Giethoorn has an interesting origin. In the 13th century, immigrants from the Mediterranean region discovered hundreds of goat horns in this area. In Dutch, “Giet” means goat and “Hoorn” means horn, and that is how the village came to be called Giethoorn.

The land in Giethoorn is mostly marshy. When early settlers arrived, they couldn’t easily find firewood for cooking, so they dried the peat and roots found in the marshland and used them as fuel. To transport these materials from one place to another, they dug canals. Over these canals, they built small wooden bridges. On the firmer patches of land, they constructed simple cottages and covered the roofs with thatched straw.

There is no direct train from Amsterdam to Giethoorn, and traveling by train with transfers takes much longer. By car, it’s about an hour and a half away, so we chose to drive. We headed to Amsterdam Airport Schiphol in the morning, picked up our rental car, and set off for Giethoorn. The sky was cloudy, so there was no harsh sun, and driving through the green fields with windmills scattered across the landscape made the journey incredibly pleasant and relaxing.

By the time we reached Giethoorn, it was around 10 a.m. The unique feature of this village is that there are no roads in the town, and no cars at all. Transportation happens entirely through canals. You can either rent a boat and steer it yourself or take a guided boat tour. We chose to take a tour.

Gliding under the small wooden bridges and admiring the fairy tale like houses from the water was truly a beautiful experience. The village looked even more charming than it did in the videos we had seen. As we cruised along, our guide shared the history of the village and pointed out interesting details along the way. 

Until 1958, hardly anyone outside the region even knew that Giethoorn existed. The village gained international attention after the Dutch film Fanfare was shot there. Once the movie showcased the beauty of this charming canal village, people around the world began to notice it, and visitors slowly started arriving to experience its unique charm.

In Europe, Venice was the place we loved the most, and Giethoorn reminded us of a smaller, quieter version of it. That is why it is often called the “Venice of the North.”

Even today, about 2,500 people live in Giethoorn. To get around the village, they use the small electric boats, often called “whisper boats,” which move silently through the canals without disturbing the peaceful atmosphere.

During the boat tour, we met a couple in their sixties who had come from London. They told us that after retiring, they had decided to spend their time traveling. They also mentioned that they did not have children. It was lovely chatting with them and hearing about their journeys.

After getting off the boat, we spent some time walking around the village. Though Giethoorn is small, it has around four restaurants probably because it has become such a popular tourist destination. There are also a few accommodations available for those who wish to stay overnight. We had lunch at Grand Café Henri Willig, and both the service and the food were very good.

By around 1 p.m., when we returned to the car, the parking lot that had been almost empty in the morning was completely full. Nearly three-fourths of it were occupied by tour buses. We stopped at a nearby supermarket to buy some bottled water and fresh cherries. 

From there, we set off for Zaanse Schans, which is a small village near Amsterdam, famous for its traditional windmills, wooden shoe (clog) workshops, and cheese factories. By the time we reached Zaanse Schans from Giethoorn, it was almost 3 p.m. We parked the car and walked into the village, eager to explore its charming, old-world atmosphere.

We bought tickets to visit one of the windmills at Zaanse Schans. This particular windmill dates back to the 18th century and is still in working condition. Inside, there were very narrow wooden stairs, just wide enough for one person at a time. As we climbed up, we saw a large rotating wheel in motion, grinding a chalk-like substance into fine powder. This powder is mixed with pigments to make paint for houses. There were detailed explanations displayed inside about how the colors are blended and prepared.

Climbing further up the steep stairs, we reached the top, where we were rewarded with a beautiful panoramic view of the surrounding countryside.

The Netherlands is famous for its Gouda cheese. At the cheese factory in Zaanse Schans, visitors can taste a wide variety of cheeses. We liked the red chili, garlic, and coconut flavored cheeses. They told us that if properly packed, these cheeses can stay fresh for up to a week without refrigeration, which made them convenient to carry during travel.

 

From the cheese factory, we walked to the clog workshop. Clogs are traditional wooden shoes, widely used in the Netherlands. Because much of the land is muddy and wet, these wooden shoes were practical for working outdoors. Sharp objects like nails or hooks cannot easily pierce the thick wood, making them safe and durable.

Clogs were mainly made for factory workers, farmers, and fishermen. However, there are also beautifully decorated versions designed for special occasions like weddings or even for wearing to church.

 

By around 6 p.m., all the workshops and windmills at Zaanse Schans had closed, so there was nothing more left to see there. We decided to head to the nearby villages of Edam and Volendam to explore a bit more before the day ended.

In the 12th century, Edam was a small village with boats, and the villagers made cheese. A small dock allowed them to export their cheese to many regions across Europe. By the 14th century, the demand for Edam cheese had grown significantly, making the local traders wealthy. To accommodate larger shipments, they built a bigger dock and left the old one unused. Over time, fishermen and farmers settled near the abandoned dock, building homes and creating a new village which eventually became Volendam.

The journey from Zaanse Schans to Edam and Volendam took about half an hour. Although Volendam is not a very small village, parking can be tricky because cars are not widely used in the Netherlands. Eventually, we found a spot near a senior living community and began walking toward the harbor.

The quiet streets, the well-kept houses, and the flowerpots in front of the homes made the town feel incredibly peaceful. Here and there, people sat outside on wooden chairs, chatting and enjoying the evening. The whole village seemed to be gently settling into a calm, relaxing rhythm.

Near the harbor, there are several restaurants and shops, but since it was evening, the shops were all closed. The restaurants, however, were bustling with activity. Volendam is famous for its herring fish. We didn’t try the fish, but we sat by a bakery window and enjoyed watching people pass by while eating Poffertjes, which are small, fluffy Dutch pancakes. 

From there, we planned to visit Edam as well, but by the time we arrived, it was around 8 p.m. The village was completely quiet, with no one in sight. As we drove past, the small flowers lining the roads seemed to smile and bid us farewell.

We then headed back to the airport. We returned the rental car and grabbed a sandwich there. Finally, we made our way back to the hotel, bringing an end to another full and memorable day. The next day, we said goodbye to Amsterdam and set off to explore another beautiful Dutch city.

I’ve shared all those moments here.